More Than Just Sustenance

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February 20, 2024

As you may know from reading the description of Polyface stewing hens, these girls are a storehouse of nutrients for us humans. Much of that nutrition is present in the bird’s fat.

After two or three years on the pasture eating grass, worms, insects, and small rodents, she has accumulated a wealth of fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, K), as well as omega-3, conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), and other healthful fatty acids. That’s what makes the fat so deep yellow compared to the pale yellow fat on the Polyface broilers (meat birds).

In contrast to the stewing hens’ longer life on the pasture, the broiler chickens spend only an average of 8 weeks on pasture before they are processed. That’s not enough time to store away the amount of nutrients that make the fat darker yellow. The deeper the color, the more the nutrients and the richer the flavor.

The same concept of fat color applies also to the color of the meat. The dark meat (leg and thigh) has a higher level of nutrition and tastier flavor than the light meat (breast), because there is more fat present in the leg than in the breast.

In certain cultures, people eat chicken leg meat and throw away the breast. This is surprising to many in our culture, who have become convinced that breast meat is more healthful since it is lower in fat than leg meat.

We are slowly re-learning that animal fat is where the nutrition and the flavor reside.

If you prepare a stewing hen by roasting or baking, you will be disappointed in the results. The meat has an unpleasant texture — tough and stringy. Leave the baking and roasting for the broiler chickens. They’re perfect for that cooking method.

For the most enjoyable culinary experience with a stewing hen, make a nice golden stock, then strain it and discard the meat. This is not wasteful because after simmering for 12 to 24 hours, the nutrients from the fat, meat, and bones are in the liquid.

With the broilers, you enjoy juicy, tender meat. With the stewing hens, you glean superior flavor and nutritional value. For best results, make stock with a stewing hen and discard the meat, then roast a broiler and add the meat from the broiler to the stock. Don’t forget the onion, carrot, and celery for additional color and aroma.

This is the perfect sustenance to support your immune system.

May you be deeply nourished,

Susan

Tour Bus Chef

Food Shortages

I'm in Oregon today speaking at the Azure Harvest Festival and a question from the audience during a Q&A stimulated a lot of discussion: "What do you think about the possibility and preparation surrounding food shortages?" David Stelzer, founder of Azure Standard, answered that the issue is not food volume, it's food nutrition. That was an interesting answer that has a lot of merit. As a nation, we are overfed and undernourished. This is the crux of the MAHA movement and the epidemic diseases we see in our country. At Polyface, we know the pastured meat and poultry we produce is far superior in essential phytochemicals and other nutrients due to the carotenes, exercise, and stress-free habitat we offer. You can taste the difference, feel the difference in texture, and measure it empirically. Perhaps my most poignant affirmation was our cat test. We purchased meat from the supermarket and offered our own for the four cats. They wouldn't touch the conventional meat (ground beef). Even though two plates and four cats would be much easier to accommodate if they spread out, all four crowded around the plate with our meat, eating it all and licking it up, before later sniffing and gingerly eating the supermarket counterpart. Since cats don't understand TV ads or USDA propaganda, they know what's good and what's not. We encourage anyone dismissive of food differences to ask their pets: you can trust them far more than doctors and experts. Yes, I get the nutrient deficiency angle on the shortage question. But I'd like to explore it a bit further. Right now, the world throws away more human-edible food, as a percentage of production, than at any time in human history. The planet is awash in food. Some 40 percent gets thrown away because it has a slight blemish, exceeds the sell-by date, or is tainted in some way. We have a fundamentally segregated food supply rather than an integrated one, and that creates a lot of unusable waste. The vulnerabilities of our food system, I think, are much more subtle. When I was in Uruguay two years ago, speaking at a conference, one of the other presenters was from Germany and showed a soil map of the globe. Not a single commercial agricultural region had a stable or positive soil trajectory. Every single area on the planet is losing soil; some faster than others, but globally our soil depletion continues without any sign of abatement. This is not a good trajectory. As much as the technocrats promise food without soil, that's not the way to bet. Soil is the skin of the earth. When it goes, famine results. The main difference now compared to centuries ago is that we have the capacity to move food around. Nobody starves due to a lack of food on the planet; they starve due to socio-political unrest and dysfunction. But what happens when massive areas can't grow anything anymore? Even being able to move food around doesn't help when there isn't enough. The soil trajectory does not look good. But at Polyface, we're building soil. Areas covered with shale (layered rocks) half a century ago now have a foot of soil on them. That's not the 3-5 feet that 150 years of inappropriate tillage eroded, but it's a build-back start. In addition to soil loss, as a planet we're seeing hydrologic decreases. The Oglala aquifer, which undergirds the irrigated agriculture in five states, has dropped more than 100 feet in the last half-century. At its current rate, it will be unpumpable in about 50 more years. Imagine if all those circular irrigation pivots in Nebraska and Kansas shut down. What then? At Polyface, we keep building ponds to inventory surface runoff. By definition, surface runoff occurs when rains come too fast at once or too much at one time for the soil to absorb it. Holding that and using it strategically in a drought is a way to reduce flooding during rain events and grow grass when it gets dry. This is one of the most landscape resilient techniques we can implement. Finally, major animal and plant diseases threaten the world's food systems like never before. African swine fever, hoof and mouth disease in cattle, and bird flu in poultry appear to be getting worse and covering larger areas. Why? We believe it's because chemicals and factory farming compromise the immunological systems in both plants and animals. Monocrops and chemical fertilizers wreak havoc on immune systems, opening the planet's food systems to new levels of fragility. In contrast, at Polyface, we believe happy animals and biodiversity offer the best antidote to immunological deficiency. Stress from unsanitary conditions, mono-species density, or dietary deficiency (rations or fertilizer) invites disease. Nature uses disease to cull the weak. Predators pick off the stragglers. This is the way biology works. But at Polyface, we keep these vulnerabilities at bay with compost fertilization, pasture rotations, and lots of species diversity, including pollinators and wildlife. Here's the point: the basic long-term vulnerabilities in the planet's food systems could all be reversed with practices Polyface uses every day. Looked at another way, the entire food shortage question could be answered if eaters and farmers implemented these ecological and immunological protocols, working together to rather than completely separated. We don't need to fall into an abyss of starvation. If we all simply began eating food from farms that build soil, increase water, and stimulate immunity, we could deliver a hospitable, abundant planet to our children. Reversing these trajectories wouldn't take much time or money. It takes intentionally-minded folks who connect the chain of sustenance from their plate to the planet. Polyface patrons do that. Thank you. Let's heal the land together. Joel

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