DR0UGHT AND COWS

written by

Joel Salatin

posted on

March 6, 2024

News media are currently putting a lot of attention on the biggest cattle story since Mad Cow:  the low number of cows in the U.S.  Right now, the number of cows is lower than it was in 1950.  The numbers plummeted 10 percent just in 2023.

Both liberal and conservative news platforms parade a constant stream of ranchers with their whining and dire warnings about the future.  This is being called a national emergency and an indication that cow farmers get no respect.  Most of these ranchers are asking for governmental relief, although I haven’t seen them specify anything.

As farmers leverage the story to beg for subsidies or loan forgiveness, short shrift is paid to the real culprit: drought.  That’s the one part of the story nobody seems to want to talk about, leaving me to realize how easy it is to never let a crisis go to waste.

The bogeymen bandied about for the low cattle numbers and subsequent escalating retail prices are essentially four:

1.  Cheap imports

2.     Climate change agenda.

3.        Fake/cell-cultured meat.

4.        Bug burgers

Okay, let’s take each of these and dissect them because none of these makes any sense.  But these ranchers have big platforms in news agencies to spew these causes to the American public like it’s gospel.   

Here we go.  

If cheap imports were crowding out American farmers, prices would not be rising so rapidly in grocery stores.  Retail beef prices are up 10 percent in the last three months; cheap imports would counter that if foreign beef were replacing domestic supplies.  It’s not cheap imports.

How about John Kerry preaching that farts and burps are going to destroy the planet?  I can assure you no cattle farmer in the nation believes the fart and burp narrative.  Nobody who owns cows goes out to the field, heavy-hearted, and says:  “Oh my, these cows are destroying the planet.  I’d better get rid of 20 percent of them so my grandchildren will have a place to live.” So far, the war on cows is not translating into regulations or other tangible herd-lowering requirements.  Farmers never drop production; they’re always trying to produce more.

If farmers don’t believe the climate change agenda, perhaps consumers believe it and are leaving beef purchases in droves.  That’s clearly not the culprit; if it were, store prices would be crashing rather than increasing.  So no, it’s not the nefarious climate change agenda.

Okay, how about fake meat and cell-cultured proteins?  Maybe they’re taking over the beef counter.  Again, if that were happening, beef prices would be plummeting.  They aren’t.  And have you checked the viability of these fake cell-cultured outfits?  Ten years ago they walked around with a swagger predicting that by 2023 they’d own half the market, beef would be bankrupt, and farmland would be unnecessary.  Billions in venture capital poured into these audacious prophecies.

What’s happened is the opposite.  It turns out that artificially duplicating blood vessels, hearts, livers, kidneys, and intestines is a bit harder than initially thought.  These outfits are having massive toxicity problems because in a bioreactor the only way you can move stuff is with bubbles and the only way you can clean it is with a filter.  Pretty crude.  In reality, the biggest bioreactors these multi-billion dollar outfits have achieved are about the size of a 5-gallon bucket.  So no, fake cell-cultured meat isn’t the culprit; if it were, you’d see a new multi-billion industry and these products would be everywhere.  Even vegans don’t like them.  So no, that’s not the issue.

How about bugs?  With all the Bill Gates love affair over eating crickets and other bugs, those definitely have not taken market share away from beef. And again, if people were eating that enough to drop beef consumption by 10 percent, we’d see crashing beef prices in the supermarket.  It’s not bugs.

So what is it?  As much as the mainstream media wants to pin this on some bogeyman in the aforementioned group, the culprit is drought.  Last fall I was in Mississippi and farmers told me their cows were breaking their legs stepping in the humongous cracks in the soil created by unprecedented drought.  This two-year drought stretches from nearly California to Georgia.  When the rains stop, the grass doesn’t grow, and when the grass doesn’t grow, you can’t feed cows.

The only way to learn something from this unfortunate tragedy is to look squarely at the culprit and figure out how to mitigate its impacts.  Can farmers mitigate drought?  The exciting answer is a resounding “YES.”  It’s a three-ingredient recipe, and the cool part is that Polyface has been deep into all these things for a long, long time.

First, ponds.  Before Europeans came to North America, it produced more food than it does today.  Let that sink in for a moment.  To be sure, it wasn’t all eaten by humans, but there were far more humans here in 1492 than in 1600.  In that century, 90 percent of the indigenous population died from measles, smallpox, whooping cough and other imported diseases.  Imagine that if 9 out of every 10 people you knew were not here over the course of 100 years.  The U.S. would go from 340 million to 34 million.

But I digress.  North America at that time had at least 100 million bison.  Some 2 million wolves needed 20 pounds of meat a day.  The Lewis and Clark expedition recorded that every single mile they encountered a bear.  Bears eat a lot.  Some 200 million beavers ate more plant material than all the humans in North America today.  And passenger pigeons in flocks large enough to block out the sun for 3 days ate a lot of food.              

At that time, North America was 8 percent water; today it’s less than 4 percent, even with all the big manmade lakes and dams.  All this water maintained what’s called “base flow” which is what percolates through the subsoil and aquifers, keeping springs and wet spots seeping.  The modern ecology idea of permaculture promotes a simple principle:  all raindrops should stay as close to where they drop for as long as possible.  By holding back surface runoff, we protect downstream neighbors from floods and offer hydration when the rains stop.  By definition, surface runoff means the cup of the commons is full, so trapping that does not steal from anyone.

At Polyface, we’ve built more than 20 pounds over the years, but we’re still woefully short, at perhaps 1.5-2 percent water.  We have a long way to go.  But even with the ponds we’ve built, we can now irrigate strategically in a dry July to make the grass think it’s May again.  P.A. Yeomans, the iconic Australian who invented the Keyline System and wrote Water for Every Farm in about 1950, challenged every farmer to commit to two things:  never let surface runoff leave your place and never end a drought with a full pond.  Polyface is on a trajectory to do that eventually.

Second, organic matter (OM).  One pound of organic matter holds 4 pounds of water.  Every 1 percent increase in OM holds 20,000 gallons of water per acre.  Organic matter is spongey and soft:  it’s any decaying vegetation.  Destroying OM is easy:  tillage is the quickest (John Deere’s moldboard plow invented in 1837 was probably the single most destructive device ever invented by humans), but a close second is chemical fertilizers (the soil biology cannibalizes itself trying to stay alive) and third, overgrazing.

When you visit Polyface, you’ll notice cows dotting the countryside on your way to our farm.  They are in the same field year-round and as the season progresses, they eat the forage too short.  That reduces the vegetative mulch that cools the soil and reduces soil moisture evaporation. Kind of like mowing your lawn too short.

At Polyface, we practice mob stocking herbivorous solar conversion lignified carbon sequestration fertilization (if that floats your boat, you can get a T-shirt with that phrase prominently emblazoned—wearing it makes you an ecology cool kid).  This strategy mimics the choreography of nature by clumping the cows and moving them from paddock to paddock.  That creates a mosaic of various sized forages that holds future dinners on the plant stalk and protects the soil from drying out.                                    

We practice large-scale composting for fertility rather than chemical fertilizers.  And in half a century, we’ve moved our OM from 1 percent in 1961 to a bit more than 8 percent today.  That’s 7 percentages, multiplied by 20,000 gallons per each, which means we can hold 140,000 gallons per acre more than we could when we started.  Now are you excited?

Third, vegetation.  Yes, just vegetation.  The Polyface land base is probably not big enough to affect local weather, but a friend in Chihuahua, Mexico owns 30,000 acres and has been doing what we’re doing for 15 years.  In that 9-inch high desert, scientists have now documented that his increased vegetation is affecting precipitation.  Walter Jenne, the most articulate scientific voice challenging the Green House Gas (GHG) theory, points out that for water vapor to condense, it needs to coalesce around a particle.

The particles are microbial exudates from plants.  As they waft into the atmosphere, they offer condensation nodes, which turn into clouds, which turn into rains.  The foggy mist settling over his fields in early mornings rehydrates dry plants and stimulates a better hydrologic cycle.  Monocrops and fallow break nature’s pattern for vegetation to build healthy water cycles.

At Polyface, we move the herd daily to a new paddock of long grass.  Rather than leaving the animals in one field to chomp it down day after day, much of our land sports long grasses recuperating for the next pruning (grazing) cycle.  This also means lots of plants are in bloom, always, which multiplies pollinators and grassland birds.

Anyone desiring to purchase meat from a drought-resistant farm needs to verify these three principles are foundational in the farm’s protocols.  At Polyface, we don’t like droughts any more than anyone else, but in our 60-plus years here, we’ve seen a drought 4 years out of 5.  That’s pretty dependable.  The correct response is not to blame someone else; the answer is to put on our work jeans and participate as loving stewards of God’s creation.  By patronizing our beef, you are directly funding a drought-mitigating strategy, and for that we and the greater world thank you.

More from the blog

Why Good Food Costs More - and Why It Matters

Many people wonder why foods grown with care for the land, animals, and farmers often cost more than the industrial options that line grocery store shelves. It’s an important and honest question, and it deserves a thoughtful answer. Let’s start with the basics: food affects everything. Our health, our communities, and the land that sustains us are all tied to how food is produced.  Unfortunately, problems begin when the cheapest foods tend to be the most processed, the most subsidized, and the most aggressively marketed. It's easy to feel boxed into these choices, especially when you look at the price tag. But sometimes, and for lots of folks, it's easy to forget that those cheap foods come with a much higher price tag later on, whether it's just how we feel as processed foods affect our bodies, or the bills that stack up after doctor's visits. I know that after I eat ultra-processed foods (often full of unspecified additives, dyes, stabilizing ingredients, etc.), I don't feel great.  I'm so thankful to say that I grew up eating mostly grass-fed beef. As a child, I remember wondering why "grocery store" beef was so different and "yucky". (I just thought only my grandpa could raise good beef.) As I've spent the last decade and a half eating mostly pastured chicken and pork, too, I can tell a definite difference when I do eat less "expensive", commercially raised foods. My grandpa definitely raised good beef, but I've realized now that it was his methods that made all the difference.  Sustainably raised, grass-fed, pastured meat is meat that is being raised as it was intended to be, and therefore, it can do for our bodies what it was intended to do: nourish, fill, and bless. When I make better choices with my meals, I'm less tired, experience fewer mood swings, don't get hungry again as soon, experience less brain fog, and have fewer stomach and digestive issues. I've realized that the true price of food is how it affects my body and makes me feel. I can choose foods that come with a 'price tag,' and will help me to feel my best, or I can choose food with a hidden cost later on, as it takes a toll on my body.At Polyface, we have a simple belief: when animals live the way they’re designed to live, they, the land, and the people who eat from it thrive. Compared to conventional, industrially raised meat, regeneratively raised, grass-fed meat offers: Healthier fat profiles — Cattle and poultry raised on diverse pastures often contain more omega-3s and fewer inflammatory omega-6 fats than animals fed grain in confinement. Higher micronutrient density — Pasture-raised meats and eggs contain more vitamins A, D, and E, along with minerals like iron and selenium—thanks to clean sunlight, fresh grasses, and good exercise. Cleaner food with fewer inputs — Animals raised on pasture don’t require routine antibiotics, growth promotants, or chemical inputs that are standard in confinement systems. Food that nourishes more with less — Nutrient-dense food tends to be more satisfying, meaning people often feel full sooner and stay full longer. These aren’t abstract ideals. They’re real, biological outcomes from raising animals on living landscapes rather than in industrial warehouses. At Polyface, we consciously invest in people and animals—not gadgets, not chemicals, not complex machinery that distances the farmer from the land. Instead of giant tractors, Polyface invests in skilled team members who know how to read the land, interpret animal behavior, and respond with nuance and care. Human eyes, human hands, and human intuition cannot be replaced by equipment if the goal is health and regeneration. Instead of confinement buildings that require ventilation systems, antibiotics, and elaborate waste-handling equipment, Polyface invests in animals raised outdoors in fresh air and sunshine, rotated across pasture so they can express their natural design (while fertilizing the soil). Instead of relying on chemical crutches, Polyface invests in biological solutions like rest periods for grass, multi-species grazing, composting systems, and portable shelters. These things help us follow natural patterns rather than fight them. This kind of farming is people-intensive. It’s observation-intensive. It’s relationship-intensive. It's a very different type of farming than what is most often seen or illustrated. So, why does this matter?  You don’t have to raise chickens or move cattle across pastures to be part of this work. Honest, regenerative farming is a partnership between the growers and the eaters. Every time you choose food raised with care and transparency, you cast a vote for the kind of world you want: A world where animals live in a way that honors their design. A world where farmers can make a living without compromising their values. A world where the land becomes healthier, more fertile, and more resilient each year. A world where food strengthens bodies instead of breaking them down. When you choose Polyface, you become part of this regenerative story. You help restore soils, revive rural communities, and support a type of agriculture that heals instead of harms.  You help build a food system rooted in transparency, nutrition, stewardship, and hope. I've heard it said that the path forward begins with honest conversation and mutual learning. The same holds true for moving toward better food and better farming. Thank you for asking hard questions and caring enough to look deeper. We want to stay accountable, curious, and committed to improving what we do. Whenever you’re able, the Salatins welcome you to the farm so you can see these principles in action for yourself. I always tell people that there’s nothing quite like walking the pastures, watching the animals, and witnessing regeneration firsthand. Together as farmers, families, and communities, we can cultivate a future where food nourishes everything it touches: the land beneath our feet, the animals in our care, and the people around our tables. I like the sound of that future, don't you? Hannah

All Related

Happy Thanksgiving, Merry Christmas, and Happy New Year--that's a lot of stuff going on kind of lumped together.  Which brings me to my thought this month:  it's all related. Perhaps the signature difference between Polyface and current mainline food thinking is integration versus segregation.  I could use numerous words to describe this basic concept, like parts versus wholes, but I think these two are as good as any. Conventional industrial food systems break things apart.   We see it on farms that grow only one or two things, without regard for the greater inter-relatedness of ecology, all the way up to packaged and processed food.  Modern processed foods don't use whole ingredients; they use pieces of things.  They strip out the germ of the wheat, for example. They refine things to the point that the food bears no resemblance to its natural state.  Then they put all these pieces together and call it food.  But these pieces came from widely divergent places, and the beautiful unprocessed original no longer exists. When Dad and I were brainstorming what to call this farm venture that would eventually become Polyface, Dad's assumption was that we'd call it Salatin Inc.--you know, like Ford Motor Company or Chrysler (named for Walter P. Chrysler, the founder). I was adamant that it NOT be our family name for two reasons.   First, I suggested there may be a day when a Salatin isn't at the helm.  Secondly, I wanted the name to recognize integrated thinking. I came up with the name "Interface Inc." to recognize the three great environments:  water, land, and forest.   For 20 years, during what I call our experimental homesteading days, we'd been planting trees, fencing out riparian zones, fencing out the forest to protect it from cows, and developing a landscape plan with these various zones in mind.  The State Corporation Commission rejected the name because, unbeknownst to us, Virginia already had an "Interface Inc."  It was a labor arbitration company to work out disagreements between labor and management. I was milking the cow when Dad told me the bad news, and I spontaneously blurted:  "If we can't be Interface, let's be Polyface--the farm of many faces."  Dad laughed, but we both liked the idea, and it stuck and was approved. The point here is that from the outset, all our thinking was about how to leverage the various assets of the diversified ecosystem and then harness the distinctives of the various animals.   As a result, we looked at symbiotic natural patterns and have done our best to duplicate them.  The Eggmobile follows the cows so the chickens can scratch through cow pies.  We use pigs to aerate compost.  Our small flock of sheep is like a glorified weed eater, cleaning up fence lines and around farm buildings to reduce mowing. The animals move through the pastures, paddock to paddock; they don't stay in the same place. Illustrative of "conventional-think", Virginia Tech veterinary professors who judged my son Daniel's 4-H talk titled "Symbiosis and Synergy in the Racken (Rabbit-Chicken) House" at the state contest nearly 30 years ago couldn't restrain their skepticism.  "Aren't you concerned about diseases with two species that close to each other?" I was never so proud.  He was about 15 and, without batting an eye, looked those professors in the eye and replied:  "We've learned that most pathogens don't cross-speciate."   Folks, I had not prepped him for that question.  When he responded like that, those three professors slapped their legs and laughed at the audacious notion.  They had no further comments and immediately tried to recruit him to enroll at Virginia Tech and major in Veterinary Science. Instead, he stayed with me on the farm and scaled up these simple integrated relationships to the thousands of animals we have now--with virtually no vet bills.  Meanwhile, conventional experts wring their hands over bird flu, screw worm, African swine fever, blackleg, and a host of maladies that attack places where an integrated approach toward biology is severely lacking. Pediatrician Dr. Sharon Goldfield, director of population health for the Murdoch Children's Research Institute, wrote a fascinating op-ed in the Wall Street Journal last week titled "Baby Food and Youth Obesity."  She slammed "packaged baby and toddler foods" because they fail even rudimentary nutrition standards. Their surveys indicated that "80 percent of children are eating packaged toddler foods, many of which are ultra-processed, from an early age, with 43 percent of them eating these foods at least five days a week." Kids are eating out of boxes and slurping from concoctions created by a segregated mentality from field to stomach.  This segregated thinking even permeates parental decision making, divorcing overall health from food and assuming whatever happens, pharmaceuticals can fix it. At Polyface, everything we do assumes that everything we do affects something else we do.  It's that simple.   Both land health and people health occur when we realize everything relates to everything.  You can't just eat well and not exercise.  You can't dismiss the value of sunlight on your skin; especially early morning sunlight.  Hydration.  Sleep.  Stress.  Forgiveness.  Gratitude.  It's all part of us. As we celebrate all these holiday times and imagine the relatedness of Thanksgiving with the Christmas story with the eagerness of a new year, imagine all the things going on in your life and how they work together.  Or how if you pull them apart, things fray. Be assured that here at Polyface we're trying to integrate ecology, people, and economy in an overall symbiotic whole to deliver you the best food at a reasonable price.   And we thank you for helping us build an integrated whole that respects earthworms all the way to our dinner plate and microbiome.  We're not feeding you earthworms, but be assured they play an ongoing role in every bite you enjoy from Polyface.  Thank you. Joel